MOULTRIE — As your landscape plans continue to unfold this season and you follow the appropriate design guidelines, certain planning notes merit your attention.  

Three general categories of plants based on adaptation are native (their area of origin and well-adapted, low maintenance), exotic (introduced from an another area and high maintenance), and naturalized (initially exotic but have become well-adapted to a given area and low to medium maintenance). Thus, for low maintenance landscapes, select native and naturalized plants.

If the landscape looks complete the day the project is finished, then you have either spent a lot of money for instant greenery using mature plants or you have done something wrong. This usually means that you have probably placed the plants too close together (a smorgasbord with major renovation in store for the short term). Understand container size, maximum average size at maturity, and physical placement. It is usually too expensive (megabucks) for most people to install all plants at mature size and shape in the landscape which would not be cost effective for many of us.

For example, use a mixture of container sizes for your project. Use #1 or 1 gal containers for filler plants (like junipers, hollies, etc), and as you direct attention towards a focal area or specimen plant (like a Japanese maple), use a larger size such as #3 or 3 gal, #5 or 5 gal, #7 or 7 gal, etc. Dogwoods and crape myrtles in bed groupings in the lawn area should be a minimum of 5 or 7 gal.  By using multiple container sizes (be consistent in container size within a species of plant) throughout the landscape, you are able to achieve an attractive landscape quickly with appreciative curb appeal.

Attention to detail and curb appeal are the critical factors that take an attractive landscape and make it much more appealing and priceless. Everyone wants a landscape that is both functional and appealing. To take a novice approach to landscaping can be distracting, destructive and cost ineffective with plants to close together, to close to structures, driveways and streets, etc.

Always call before you dig. Contact your utility companies (power, cable, phone, water, sewer, etc.) and have them mark where their service lines are located. This protects you from paying major expenses when severing a utility line that is not marked.

Without hesitation or reservation, always seek the advice and assistance of a landscape designer and/or consultant who can provide you valuable information and services in project development. Also, as you seek the services of a landscape contractor, pursue those with positive track records and follow up on their references. These parties should be unbiased and provide professional and economical services. The last thing you want is for your landscape to be planned and planted by incompetent individuals who offer limited options and restricted (minimal) inventories of plants. These people are here today and gone tomorrow, taking your available funding with them or leaving you with a mess with which to correct.

Understand the uses for both evergreen and deciduous plants. Know that pecan trees are production trees not landscape plants (if used, should be planted at distances from the home) and can be very troublesome in the spring and summer (shade) and fall (leaves). Evergreen plants are very effective as foundation plants around the home.

Mulching is a significant component in the landscaping process and should be selected carefully. Examine the site and make notes that will help in the selection process since multiple options will exist. For example, using pine straw in those beds underneath pine trees and pea gravel to small gravel in your foundation beds will offer great curb appeal. Also, design your beds to encompass several pine trees in a creative fashion which will also minimize the lawn area and save mowing time rather than individualizing the trees. Determine which organic or inorganic mulch better fits each specific bed area on site. With pine straw, remove and replace once each year in the spring followed by replenishing as necessary throughout the year, especially in the fall.

The spacing of plants is critical and every effort should be made to minimize overcrowding.  In general, annual and perennial flowers should be planted on one-foot centers, daylilies on two-feet centers, and mums on three-feet centers in beds. Also, woody groundcovers should be planted three-feet centers, small shrubs planted on five- to seven–feet centers, large shrubs planted on 10-15 feet centers, and trees planted on 20-30 feet centers.  The controlling factor is maximum average size (height and width). Keep your groupings in odd numbers, such as 3, 5, 7, etc. unless a more formal setting is preferred.

Hedges for the purpose of screening should be planted in double, offset rows for density and effectiveness. Use native or naturalized plants whenever and wherever possible. Since the public area is more critically evaluated than the private area of the landscape, you have more flexibility and less conformity in the private area.

Dogwoods and azaleas need shade. White dogwoods are easier to grow than the red or pink ones. Many different azaleas are available based upon color, size and bloom period. Crape myrtles are excellent choices, especially powdery mildew resistant cultivars. Indian hawthorns make good azalea substitutes in sun or shade. White Indian hawthorns are easier to grow and manage than the pink ones.

Wax myrtles make good natural hedges if space allows. Hollies and junipers make good accent and filler plants. In most situations, perennials are preferred over annuals because of longevity and ease of maintenance.  Ornamental grasses and wildflowers can be used effectively.  Limit the use of the Bradford pear due to mid-life problems. The Cleveland pear is a much better specimen to use. Select the male ginkgo  and sweetgum, not the female.

Limit the use of red tip photinias due to potential Entomosporium leaf spot problems. With established red tips, limit pruning and sufficiently water, but not too much.  Knock-out roses should be pruned for size and shape in February to March as the new growth begins to develop.  Do not prune in winter since the excess vegetation serves as a buffer in cold protection. They can be lightly pruned throughout the growing season for shape and removal of damaged branches.  Mums are very attractive plants for the fall and have strong curb appeal.

Keep mowing and maintenance in mind as bed shapes and sizes are developed.  Understand the water, fertilization, and pruning (or mowing) requirements of plants.  Centipedegrass requires minimal fertilization and should be mowed at 1 to 1.5 inches height (not 0.75 inches which scalps and encourages weed development).  Understand pests (weeds, insects and diseases) and seek professional assistance in their identification and management.

May your landscaping efforts pay positive dividends through personal enjoyment and satisfaction, public appreciation and recognition, environmental stewardship and sustainability, and increased property attraction (curb appeal) and value.